Barrel Recommendations

[Deleted member 28227]

I'm slowly upgrading my rifle... right now it's just way too heavy ~9.5lbs. I like the stock and caliber and kinda think that dropping in a new barrel might be a way to shed some lbs.

So here's the question, my rifle was a Remington 700 BDL with a 24" barrel in .264 wing mag. I added a boyds laminate stock, not the lightest material, but I can't find anyone else who makes a left-handed right action stock.

Any idea what that factory barrel weighs and what the lightest barrel on the market would weigh? Could I shed a pound or 2 there? It definitely seems like the barrel is pretty heavy.

Also I'm interested in getting a 1 in 8 or even 1 in 7 twist on the new barrel as I would like to shoot heavier bullets. Possibly 160 grn.

I think I could likely loose some weight on the scope as well so dropping the current Burris Fullfield II in favor of a light weight Leupold is on the docket list as well.

Generally idea would be to spend $1000 and drop 2lbs if possible, is that goal achievable?

 

[MinnesotaHunter]

2lbs is quite a bit.

I bet you can get a pound out of a barrel change, but it probably means dropping to a 22" and it might have to be carbon fiber wrapped, which might bust that $1k goal. A #3 24" Douglas is about 3lbs, and their 22" Featherweight barrel is 2lbs. A Proof Research 22" "Sendero Light" is 2.5lbs.

It looks like a long action Boyd's is about 2.8lbs. I would think you could have McMillian built a hunter edge stock in that config they are about 1.4lbs. You could go to a blind mag when you do it and probably shave a few more ounces.

 

[Deleted member 16014]

PacNor has a barrel weight calculator that is handy for getting close: Barrel Weight Calculator
You don't have to put radius in there to calculate it btw. You could go light contour and chop it short, but it'd be kind of an odd combo with the chambering and burly stock, at least on paper. And as noted carbon wrap is going to be twice the price. I would think McMillan or Manners should be able to inlet any ambidextrous stock to fit your need? 'Course that doesn't address your interest in spinning heavy bullets. You might have to narrow down the priority.

You could sell the ball of wax, add $1,000, and be in a LH Fieldcraft in an 8 twist 6.5x55 Swede

 

[Deleted member 28227]

PacNor has a barrel weight calculator that is handy for getting close: Barrel Weight Calculator
You don't have to put radius in there to calculate it btw. You could go light contour and chop it short, but it'd be kind of an odd combo with the chambering and burly stock, at least on paper. And as noted carbon wrap is going to be twice the price. I would think McMillan or Manners should be able to inlet any ambidextrous stock to fit your need? 'Course that doesn't address your interest in spinning heavy bullets. You might have to narrow down the priority.

You could sell the ball of wax, add $1,000, and be in a LH Fieldcraft in an 8 twist 6.5x55 Swede

So I'm going to do some measuring when I get home, but I'm guessing that since it was a magnum caliber Remington used their #3 contour on the barrel... so the current barrel is 4lb 8oz. Which means if I get a 24" fluted, lightweight or contoured barrel I could cut the weight down by at least 2lbs? I really think it's a #3 just cause it's heavy as F... but maybe I'm just full of it, I can't find any info online about which barrels they used in which rifles.

Contours

www.stockysstocks.com

If they used the #2 then it would just be 1lb, which then maybe isn't quite as worth it...

I think it would probably also be worth calling Manners or McMillian... I essentially need a left handed stock, inlet for a right action. I mean I could go full left-handed or just use a ambidextrous stock... but I'm cross eye dominate so I really like boyd's setup.

Just getting a LH fieldcraft is tempting... or the randy rifle for that matter

 

[88man]

If your trying to cut weight get a light weight manners or McMillan stock for starters.

 

[MJE2083]

I think in order to save serious weight you would have to go with a shorter barrel which would be a disadvantage with a 264 win mag. Maybe consider a fluted barrel?

 

[HandgunHunter]

If I go light weight on a barrel it’s always krieger.

They do the contour and flutes before the rifling. A #2 taper will cut a good bit of weight.

Removing excess wood inside the barrel channel and under the butt will also help.

 

[Millsworks]

I personally think that you would be happier, and have a better chance of getting a more light weight rifle, if you just buy a whole other rifle, in a whole other caliber.
Something in a short action.
Something with less recoil.
That will make a light rifle a whole lot more enjoyable to use.
I really like the 264 win mag. But I wouldn't want one with a short, light weight barrel.
I am thinking Remington model seven in .260. I have had one for longer than it was a factory offered cartridge.
I love it for most any hunting out to 400yrds, on deer size game and black bears.
Many hunt elk with them also.
The .260 is the older less cool brother of the Creed more.
The 6.5 Creed is certainly a better choice if you don't reload.

 

[std7mag]

E.R.Shaw showing their ##2 Remington magnum contour at 3.2lbs for 26".

2 lbs is a lot to drop! Your essentially going to have to skeletonize everything to keep your same stock.

Melvin Forbes (NULA) uses a heavier contour 24" barrel & saves weight on the stock.
Mine with Vortex Viper alum rings & Sightron SIH 3-9X40 scope weight just over 6-1/2 lbs.

 

[3855WIN]

Here’s your answer

NEW IN BOX LEFT HAND Tikka T3X Lite .308WIN Bolt Action Rifle, 22.4" bbl

NEW IN BOX LEFT HAND Tikka T3X Lite .308WIN Bolt Action Rifle, 22.4" bbl for sale online.

www.gunsinternational.com

 

[sbhooper]

I will only buy Criterion barrels. I now have five and all are unbelievable shooters. I would not worry about losing very much weight. Go with whatever slim barrel you want to pick. I generally buy 24-inch, heavy sporter barrels, so chasing a light rifle is not an issue with me. I have a couple factory rifles that are lighter than my custom-barreled rifles, IF I decide that I need a lighter rifle. I also choose fairly rugged scopes, which does not equate to shaving weight.

 

[VOLhunter]

Oregunsmithing will make you a VERY lightweight stock in left hand which will probably save you more weight than changing contours. I have several Douglas barrels and I highly recommend them. Fully finished with both options would put you between $1100-1200

 

[RockinU]

If you've never shot a 7 lb rifle, I'd be sure and shoot one before you spend a lot to get there. I completely understand looking for weight savings, but lightweight rifles are really unforgiving, and just a little harder to shoot in general, especially in conditions where you are layered up with clothes. At least that's been my experience.

 

[noharleyyet]

Purpose built offering ...cough, NewbHowa...do the math wilm, even if you have to change cartridges.

 

[brockel]

Purpose built offering ...cough, NewbHowa...do the math wilm, even if you have to change cartridges.

Can put that same rifle together for $200-$300 cheaper If you buy the components yourself

 

[brockel]

I wouldn’t go lower than a #3 with a 264 win mag. #2 isn’t much smaller and fluting the #3 isn’t saving shit for weight and is just for looks. Fastest way for you to drop weight would be to order a McMillan edge fill in a left handed flavor you like.

 

[brockel]

Purpose built offering ...cough, NewbHowa...do the math wilm, even if you have to change cartridges.

Howa should have went stainless, McMillan edge, and the leupold. That would have been a hell of a setup. I can put that package together myself for what they are offering the hs package for. I assume they can get all those components cheaper than I can so they still would have been making some good money on a great setup. Would have also dropped almost 1.5lbs going to the McMillan over the HS

 

[Deleted member 28227]

Purpose built offering ...cough, NewbHowa...do the math wilm, even if you have to change cartridges.

Post #4.... yep...

So upgrade options...assuming all would wear a VX-3I Leuopld that weights 12.6oz (cost is scope + rifle) and my current rifle weighs 9.5lbs

Tikka 3X Superlite 6.5 Swede ~$1300
6.6lb + 12.6oz =7.4lbs
Cost per lb saved= $619

Kimber Ascent .280 AI ~$2370
5.3lb + 12.6oz= 6.1lbs
Cost per lb saved = $697

Barret Field Craft 6.5 Swede ~$2400
5.6lb + 12.6oz =6.4lbs
Cost per lb saved= $774

Randy Rifle 6.5Creedmoor ~ $1600
7.4lbs +12.6oz = 8.2lbs
Cost per lb saved= $1230


Scope upgrade $520 weight savings 5.4oz
Proof Research 24in Carbon Sendero light $830 1.5lbs

Total weight savings 1.8lbs new rifle weight 7.7lbs cost $1350 + gunsmithing
Cost per lb Saved $750

So based on the nerd out seems like the Tikka is an obvious a good route, the Kimber works well... Barret probably as well given gunsmithing costs.

Please excuse the over analysis lol

 

[ImBillT]

Proof Research is the only way you could drop that kind of weight in the barrel. Personally, I’d get a light McMillan stock, a light scope, aluminum rings, and possibly a blind mag or lighter bottom metal before I’d try to shave that kind of weight from the barrel. That said, a Krieger barrel and a non-factory chamber(you can stick with the original cartridge, I just mean a chamber cut by someone who cares) is always money well spent. I’d go with a slightly heavier contour and have them flute it to the same weight as your factory barrel, but that’s just me.

 

[brockel]

Proof Research is the only way you could drop that kind of weight in the barrel. Personally, I’d get a light McMillan stock, a light scope, aluminum rings, and possibly a blind mag or lighter bottom metal before I’d try to shave that kind of weight from the barrel. That said, a Krieger barrel and a non-factory chamber(you can stick with the original cartridge, I just mean a chamber cut by someone who cares) is always money well spent. I’d go with a slightly heavier contour and have them flute it to the same weight as your factory barrel, but that’s just me.

Proof sendero light is almost the same weight as a #3