2022 Toyota Tundra

Uh oh. mtmuley

Dropped mine off this morning. Sounds like a batch of them left San Antonio without getting the bolts torqued.

I know one of the technicians at my local dealership fairly well. He said he's checked a few now and they've all been good.
 
Dropped mine off this morning. Sounds like a batch of them left San Antonio without getting the bolts torqued.

I know one of the technicians at my local dealership fairly well. He said he's checked a few now and they've all been good.

Just got the call. Truck is all good and ready for me to pick it up.
 
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I found out today that remote start via the key fob is tied to the remote connectivity subscription which I canceled. Paying Toyota for the priviledge of using hardware I already own, so that they can then bundle the information they pull from the truck and sell it to 3rd parties doesn't sit well with me.

I'm pretty upset about it. I don't think I would have purchased the truck had I known this was how they did business.
 
I found out today that remote start via the key fob is tied to the remote connectivity subscription which I canceled. Paying Toyota for the priviledge of using hardware I already own, so that they can then bundle the information they pull from the truck and sell it to 3rd parties doesn't sit well with me.

I'm pretty upset about it. I don't think I would have purchased the truck had I known this was how they did business.

I thought i had read that they changed that policy. Let me dig around a bit.
 
Let me know if you find something.

I used the remote start a few times when I first bought the truck a couple months ago just to try it out. About a month ago I unsubscribed from their connected services. Then I recently tried the remote start (key fob) and it will not function. The article someone dug up for me on the tundra forum was dated but said it was part of the subscription. And everything I've found says the same.

If its just a malfunction on my vehicle's end then I owe the toyota exec's and their ancestors/families/pets some apologies because I've ben cursing them all day.
 
i put a deposit down on the 22 1794 tundra last november...it arrived in mid April last year.....i have 14k miles already on it and i have loved every second of it. this thing handles these backroads extremely well...this is coming from a ford owner (for 20 years) ...not sure I'll ever be able to get rid of this truck....i love to drive and the response and handle on the highway and dirt roads puts the ford a distant memory. gas mileage has yet to be optimal but i drive fast. i took it from Montana to Minnesota this fall and was able to maintain 20.1 mpg there and back. i thought that was pretty good and i was going the speed limit (mostly, ha ha). now that I've had it for 14k I'm getting brand new bad ass tires, a lift and level and maybe inch-and-half spacers. if you can afford it, i really think you'll love this truck. it drives like a truck...the new fords drive like a lincoln navigator....and that's not a good thing.
 
Just put my deposit on my 2023.Limited 4x4 Tundra crew cab. Mesquite/Black softex
Should be here by the end of Jan. Mainly purchased for western hunts.
Looking for reccomendation on toppers, baskets, winches and bumpers.also looking at wheels and tires, hi jack, shovel and tire chains.
Any other must have add ons/ purchases? Best brands on any of the about would be helpful.
Thanks!
Ed
 
Other than the remote start having been killed when I opted out of connected services I've been enjoying mine.

I put a decked drawer system in it. If you get one for this truck get the snow kit. On my ram the decked platform went all the way back to the tailgate. There is a 2" gap on the tundra and seems to allow enough airflow that there is quite a bit of snow ingress into the drawers which I did not see on the Ram. They sent me a snow kit for free, but so far it has been too cold to install it as it requires adhesives to stick.

I was able to fit 285/70-18 tires on the stock suspension and wheels with no rubbing. However I may has screwed myself as I probably can't put chains on the rear without ripping off my mud flaps. I don't think you could fit any chains up front even with the stock tires without changing your wheel offset.

I have some RCI skidplates and cat guards showing up on Monday.

In the future I'm planning on a topper, and probably the CBI covert bumper as I really want front recovery points, but as my only vehicle I'd rather not destroy the aerodynamics on the highway with a full on bumper. Once I do that I will be looking at a suspension upgrade that brings the ride height back up to stock or maybe slightly higher. I feel pretty good about my ground clearance currently with essentially a 35" tire.
 
I put 275/65-20s on mine with no lift. They fit without a problem but as @pyrotechnic mentioned I think chains will be tight.

Likewise I'm looking into the CBI covert front bumper. Quite a few armor options are available. Only a couple toppers have made it to the market though. I think I'm going to order an ARE after new years.
 
Can someone explain the rear axle lockers? I have a 2008 tundra I’m getting ready to upgrade. It got around about as good as any half ton I have owned. Do I need to have a rear locker on these new trucks to match that performance? Seems like these new pickups suck when things get a little hairy. Is that because they need the rear locker?
 
Can someone explain the rear axle lockers? I have a 2008 tundra I’m getting ready to upgrade. It got around about as good as any half ton I have owned. Do I need to have a rear locker on these new trucks to match that performance? Seems like these new pickups suck when things get a little hairy. Is that because they need the rear locker?
The gen ii (07-21) didn't have a rear locker as an option from Toyota. It had a factory installed Limited slip differential (LSD) with some electronic configurations to use it in different ways. So it's not a true mechanical LSD, but an open differential with electronics that uses the ABS system, along with atrac, Trac, auto LSD, MTS to mimic a mechanical LSD.
1671301395129.png

The "locker" is just that, a locking differential with no slippage. Locker = full power to both wheels, LSD= will allow slippage but can mechanically achieve a sort of a semi-lock. Today's open diffs are accompanied by an electronic traction control, such as Atrac (at the diff) or Trac ( at the engine) to mimic an LSD.

A locker is either on or off, usually can only be driven at extremely low speeds (5-10 mph) when engaged, and it will explicitly warn you in the owners manual about turning or accelerating on pavement.

An LSD, and all of the accompanying electronics, are on by default. Like the graphic above shows, there are different combinations of electronic settings the driver can select to make it work differently, not just within the differential, but also in terms of motor output/throttling.

There are scenarios where a locker is useful. Any time one tire is coming off the ground, that will "open" the differential, allowing one tire to spin freely in the air, and the other will just sit there. A locker would effectively lock the differential to force both tires to spin at full power.

IMO, A winch or chains are for more beneficial for most situations the average hunter will find themselves in. But if you can think of scenarios you've been in where 1 wheel spins and the other does not, you might have use for one. Keep in mind, some of the electronics in the LSD also work for some of those situations.
 
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The gen ii (07-21) didn't have a rear locker as an option from Toyota. It had a factory installed Limited slip differential (LSD) with some electronic configurations to use it in different ways.
View attachment 256005

The "locker" is just that, a locking differential with no slippage. Locker = full power to both wheels, LSD= will allow slippage and is often accompanied by an electronic traction control, such as Atrac (at the diff) or Trac ( at the engine).

A locker is either on or off, usually can only be driven at extremely low speeds (5-10 mph) when engaged, and it will explicitly warn you in the owners manual about turning or accelerating on pavement.

An LSD, and all of the accompanying electronics, are on by default. Like the graphic above shows, there are different combinations of electronic settings the driver can select to make it work differently, not just within the differential, but also in terms of motor output/throttling.

There are scenarios where a locker is useful. Any time one tire is coming off the ground, that will "open" the differential, allowing one tire to spin freely in the air, and the other will just sit there. A locker would effectively lock the differential to force both tires to spin at full power.

IMO, A winch or chains are for more beneficial for most situations the average hunter will find themselves in. But if you can think of scenarios you've been in where 1 wheel spins and the other does not, you might have use for one. Keep in mind, some of the electronics in the LSD also work for some of those situations.
Ok. Thanks for explaining this. So my 2008 tundra would have the same traction as a new truck without the locker? I think when you get stuck in snow it seems a lot of times one wheel spins while the other doesn’t on a 2018 ram 1500 I have run. But I never noticed this problem on my tundra
 
Ok. Thanks for explaining this. So my 2008 tundra would have the same traction as a new truck without the locker? I think when you get stuck in snow it seems a lot of times one wheel spins while the other doesn’t on a 2018 ram 1500 I have run. But I never noticed this problem on my tundra
Possibly? The traction control system may have improved in the 22? Not sure, I'm still in a gen 2 2012 and the traction control can be a bit clunky. But it does what it's supposed to do. I'd guess that at the very least the 22 has a smoother and quieter system.

Example - driving through deeper snow

Before I accelerate I will turn on 4 hi and hold down my traction control button to free up my wheels. Goal is to keep the RPMs up and the wheels turning fast. Don't slow down (know the snow depth though too...ask me how I know). I don't want traction control picking up wheel slippage and cutting or redirecting power. I want both to spin, but I don't need a locker for this. The LSD system will accommodate if I turn the traction control system off.

But if I got stuck and only had one wheel touching, even if I had good traction on that one wheel, the LSD might not be able to direct enough torque to the downside wheel to get me out. This would likely mean that when I hit the accelerator, my bottom wheel will start to spin, but then the diff will open and direct the torque to the upside wheel. This is where the locker would come in handy. Click it into 4 lo and turn the locker on. Crawl out with that one wheel on the ground doing all the work, where the LSD would "slip".

There is no replacement for a locker, it is the only system that will get full power to both wheels no matter what.

Hard to say on the dodge. I'd guess the electronic traction control systems are different from brand to brand, but I'm only familiar with the Toyotas.
 
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Possibly? The traction control system may have improved in the 22? Not sure, I'm still in a gen 2 2012 and the traction control can be a bit clunky. But it does what it's supposed to do. I'd guess that at the very least the 22 has a smoother and quieter system.

Example - driving through deeper snow

Before I accelerate I will turn on 4 hi and hold down my traction control button to free up my wheels. Goal is to keep the RPMs up and the wheels turning fast. Don't slow down (know the snow depth though too...ask me how I know). I don't want traction control picking up wheel slippage and cutting or redirecting power. I want both to spin, but I don't need a locker for this. The LSD system will accommodate if I turn the traction control system off.

But if I got stuck and only had one wheel touching, even if I had good traction on that one wheel, the LSD might not be able to direct enough torque to the downside wheel to get me out. This would likely mean that when I hit the accelerator, my bottom wheel will start to spin, but then the diff will open and direct the torque to the upside wheel. This is where the locker would come in handy. Click it into 4 lo and turn the locker on. Crawl out with that one wheel on the ground doing all the work, where the LSD would "slip".

There is no replacement for a locker, it is the only system that will get full power to both wheels no matter what.

Hard to say on the dodge. I'd guess the electronic traction control systems are different from brand to brand, but I'm only familiar with the Toyotas.
Very helpful information. Thanks
 
Another of the perks beyond the locker with the TRD OR package is the Multi Terrain Select system. Snow mode turns off all the junk.

I bounced through some decent snow last month in standard 4 high though.

The panoramic view monitor is absolutely awesome though. I'm happy I spent up just for that.
 
For what it's worth, my Toyota has normals traction control, A-TRAC and a manual locker on the rear.

I use them all at different times, but honestly I think I could get by without a locker. It has saved me some shoveling in the past, but it gets very little use in my rig.

I do however use A-TRAC quite a bit. It's only functional in 4lo, but it does a very good job of getting traction to the tires that need it when they need it. I could be wrong, but I don't think they've put A-TRAC in any of the pickups. However the Multi Terrain Select sounds similar.

Here's a decent video showing how the A-TRAC works.

 
You can see in the video how the LSD can still struggle to get enough torque to the right wheel. The electronic traction controls give you combinations of settings, throttling, braking, motor output, to accomplish the task with LSD. The locker is no questions asked, make both wheels spin right now, no matter what.
 
For what it's worth, my Toyota has normals traction control, A-TRAC and a manual locker on the rear.

I use them all at different times, but honestly I think I could get by without a locker. It has saved me some shoveling in the past, but it gets very little use in my rig.

I do however use A-TRAC quite a bit. It's only functional in 4lo, but it does a very good job of getting traction to the tires that need it when they need it. I could be wrong, but I don't think they've put A-TRAC in any of the pickups. However the Multi Terrain Select sounds similar.

Here's a decent video showing how the A-TRAC works.

The Tundra does have A-TRAC, it defaults to on in both 4hi and 4lo until you turn off traction control. I agree that it works very well, and I like having it in 4hi too.
 
The Tundra does have A-TRAC, it defaults to on in both 4hi and 4lo until you turn off traction control. I agree that it works very well, and I like having it in 4hi too.

Interesting. I wonder why they give it to you guys in 4hi and I only get it in 4lo.

Might have something to do with mine being a manual transfer case and not electronic.
 
Interesting. I wonder why they give it to you guys in 4hi and I only get it in 4lo.

Might have something to do with mine being a manual transfer case and not electronic.
You have MTS, which is basically Atrac with some extra options. Some of the modes cant be engaged at higher speeds. So Atrac is for 4lo and mts is for 4hi (even though atrac isn't there).

Gen 2 tundras don't have MTS, so it's Atrac for 4lo and 4hi. Although, I believe it behaves differently in 4lo than it does in 4hi.

Atrac is very capable. Not as responsive or as straightforward as a locker, but it's cheaper, simpler, does most of what a locker can do, and doesn't have some of the negative, and potentially expensive drawbacks of a locker.
 
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