Kenetrek Boots

14 Peaks

neffa3 said:
isn't it wife now?
Click to expand...
Expectant mother of his child as well...

Personally I think if your doing a documentary like that you have to include the people they love and that loved them. Those individuals sacrifice an amazing amount.

Weird coincidence... they show Conrad Anker and Jimmy Chin helping out on social media to get China to open up Shishapangma to Nims. Conrad's climbing partner Alex Lowe died on that peak. Conrad is married to Alex's widow.
 
wllm1313 said:
Expectant mother of his child as well...

Personally I think if your doing a documentary like that you have to include the people they love and that loved them. Those individuals sacrifice an amazing amount.

Weird coincidence... they show Conrad Anker and Jimmy Chin helping out on social media to get China to open up Shishapangma to Nims. Conrad's climbing partner Alex Lowe died on that peak. Conrad is married to Alex's widow.
Click to expand...
Oh Conrad, remember when he went on the internet and declared that “the ufc isn’t a sport, it’s bloodlust” because he was mad at Dana white for endorsing trump?
Really respectful to the ex collegiate wrestlers who have no other outlet for their decades of training.
I don’t think petzl or black diamond are giving out sponsorship dollars for folk style wrestling.
And then he got in an argument with a truck driver from Illinois about it.
The climbing type...

In reference to the people he loves or love him, I think that might be my problem with the whole thing.
Free soloing just seems like such a selfish, pointless and suicidal pursuit.
There’s just so many variables that are out of your control.
Bird, spider, the guy in the pink unicorn outfit dropping a deuce on your head.
And then what?
What was the point?
How would you justify the pain you cause those left behind if something goes wrong?
 
The Alpinist is another good Netflix doc on a climber. That dude did some mixed climbing solo stuff that was mind blowing. Couldn't summit Torre egger due to a snow storm so he had to rap down in the dark during a blizzard. Then turns around a couple days later and does the whole climb in a day. Wild.
 
Man, apparently I need to watch more netflix, I'm missing out. Dawn Wall, Meru, and Free Solo were all great. There were a couple of older ones on netflix for a while, that were not of that caliber.
 
@GrantK, I have a question for you. The closest I’ve come to rock climbing was the wall in the athletic center in college. In the Alpinist when he’s ice climbing, he is going back and forth between rock and ice. At one point he hops over to some ice that’s just hanging there. Looks to be about a foot thick and you could see behind it. It was just dangling. To me that looks like one jab with his climbing pick and the whole thing could break off. Is that the case or is it stronger than it looks.
 
neffa3 said:
Man, apparently I need to watch more netflix, I'm missing out. Dawn Wall, Meru, and Free Solo were all great. There were a couple of older ones on netflix for a while, that were not of that caliber.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the hijack, but I think these sailing documentaries are kinda cool and outdoor related and I’ve been trying to push them hard on people lately.
I’m pretty sure in the first one that dude sails that boat solo, wide open around the world in 70 days nonstop.
He might eat mountain house everyday. I need to rewatch it.
 
Southern Elk said:
@GrantK, I have a question for you. The closest I’ve come to rock climbing was the wall in the athletic center in college. In the Alpinist when he’s ice climbing, he is going back and forth between rock and ice. At one point he hops over to some ice that’s just hanging there. Looks to be about a foot thick and you could see behind it. It was just dangling. To me that looks like one jab with his climbing pick and the whole thing could break off. Is that the case or is it stronger than it looks.
Click to expand...

The right ice is incredibly strong- like a 5" diameter icecicle would support a human climbing on it if it's well-formed, which means no bubbles, no snow, usually slow formed, temperature plays a big factor too, the ice gets much more "plastic" and resist breaking a lot better when it's warmer, counterintuitively free-hanging ice and pillars are less likely to break when the temperature is steady and just above freezing, the most dangerous time to be climbing stuff like that is right after a cold snap, the ice contracts and has tension in it that can result in the whole thing collapsing if the right spot is hit...youtube "Ice pillar collapses" and there are plenty of examples of bad judgment...

TLDR is yeah, it's mostly fine...
 
Thanks for the notice. Watched it last night. Really neat to see some Nepalese climbers showing how amazing they really are.

Kind of sad that in this day of wokeness that the quote toward the end that if a european or american climbing expedition was attempting or completed such a feat that it would have been getting worldwide press, but here we are 2 years later learning about it on a hunting forum.
 
GrantK said:
The right ice is incredibly strong- like a 5" diameter icecicle would support a human climbing on it if it's well-formed, which means no bubbles, no snow, usually slow formed, temperature plays a big factor too, the ice gets much more "plastic" and resist breaking a lot better when it's warmer, counterintuitively free-hanging ice and pillars are less likely to break when the temperature is steady and just above freezing, the most dangerous time to be climbing stuff like that is right after a cold snap, the ice contracts and has tension in it that can result in the whole thing collapsing if the right spot is hit...youtube "Ice pillar collapses" and there are plenty of examples of bad judgment...

TLDR is yeah, it's mostly fine...
Click to expand...
Just watched a couple of those videos. That's insane!
 
Southern Elk said:
@GrantK, I have a question for you. The closest I’ve come to rock climbing was the wall in the athletic center in college. In the Alpinist when he’s ice climbing, he is going back and forth between rock and ice. At one point he hops over to some ice that’s just hanging there. Looks to be about a foot thick and you could see behind it. It was just dangling. To me that looks like one jab with his climbing pick and the whole thing could break off. Is that the case or is it stronger than it looks.
Click to expand...
Stronger than it looks. The amount of (or lack of) ice you need to stay "on the route" is minimal. Tough to protect unless you have some rock gear options, but it can be iced up cracks which makes cams almost useless; banging in pitons becomes a good option, or hammering in a hex or wired nut. Ice climbing on thin stuff is a game of delicate technique and a calm mind. It can be one of the most exhilarating and scary things to do, even with really good pro.
For another "that can't work", google V-thread ice anchors.....you can hang a small car off of those things, but the first time you show a new ice climber how we are going to rap off a route and they see one, the eyes get wide.
Next to hunting, climbing is the thing that keeps me going, ice climbing especially.
 
I watched 14 Peaks last night - thanks for the recommendation. The accomplishments of that climbing team were absolutely incredible. They mention several times the logistics challenge of the entire endeavor. I have to wonder if some of those logistics was having other climbers on site ahead of the primary team setting camps, moving supplies up, selecting routes, etc. From books I have read about climbing the 8000ers, it is often these things that take so much of a climbers time. Also saw that they helicoptered in to some (several?) of the base camps, whereas many climbers spend a week or more trekking in to base camp and then back out again, burning up much time. He was also lucky that weather and climbing conditions were generally in his favor. Still, incredible accomplishment no matter how you look at it, and some great cinematography.
 
Enjoyed 14 peaks yesterday. Now I just started the Alpinist watching the first 15 minutes I think these guys are absolutely insane.
 
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