The containment cage on many dropaway rests can be removed by taking out a couple screws. If yours happens to be non-removable, Vaportrail's Limb Driver models and Hamskea's target models don't have cages.
Do you do any type of tuning (paper, etc)? Or just sight in with field points then screw on broadheads and they always land right alongside FP's with no further adjustment?
If the arrow weren't spinning, I would be more apt to believe that inconsistent broadhead-to-vane alignment could cause noticeable flight discrepancies. But I think the fact that the arrow is rotating in flight (assuming it's fletched with some helical/offset) will smooth out any effect...
I don't think broadhead-to-vane alignment (or lack thereof) makes a noticeable difference and don't worry about it myself, but using heat reversible glue (aka, "hot melt") to secure your inserts will allow you to tinker with alignment to your heart's content.
Most arrow manufacturers warn...
60" is the AMO length of the bow, which is measured along the curvature of the bow from string groove to string groove. You will need a 60" AMO string, which will have an actual length of 56-57" (depending on the string maker and material).
50 is the draw weight in pounds at a 28" draw length...
As long as your broadheads are grouping well and you're not getting any vane contact, there's no reason to change. Blazers are popular for a reason (because they work). There are many other fletching options that would also work, but if it ain't broke...
Tuning isn't as complicated/mysterious as it's sometimes made out to be. The basic idea is to get the "powerstroke" of the bow (i.e., the path traveled by the point on the string where the arrow is nocked) aligned with the rest. Since we can't watch/measure the string path during the shot, we...
You would likely be surprised by how much harder it feels to draw a Lift compared to your Switchback LD (at the same draw weight). Comparatively speaking, the draw cycle will start sooner and climb/fall more steeply, which often gets described as "harsh," stiff," and "jumpy." Modern hunting bows...
Bitz. It's slower than a multi-vane jig but more versatile in terms of angle, direction, quantity. If I were fletching a lot of arrows, I would probably switch to a multi-vane jig. But for the little I do (maybe a dozen new arrows per year plus a few repairs), the Bitz works fine.
If you can get them to tune (i.e., broadheads and field points group together), then there's no need to change. Spine charts/calculators would likely recommend 300-350 spine depending on your arrow length and point weight, but there's nothing wrong with continuing to shoot 400's if they're...
Perhaps. All the concentrated forms of permethrin I've found say "contains petroleum distillates" on the label, which I assume is the source of the odor. If anyone has recommendations on a particular brand of concentrate that doesn't leave a smell behind, I'm all ears. I'll keep using it...
Do you find that the farm store concentrate leaves an odor on your clothes?
I've diluted Martin's 10% and Gordon's 13.3% down to 0.5% for spraying/soaking clothing, and the clothes smell like diesel fuel afterward. The odor isn't overpowering, but it's noticeable. For my farm clothes I don't...
The goal of tuning is to get the rest in line with the path traveled by the nocking point during the shot. This can be achieved via various combinations of adjusting rest windage/elevation, nocking point location, cam timing, and cam lean/lateral position.
For left/right alignment, a purist...